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It looks like the 2024 GM 3500 dually has 433 MHz sensors and these TPMS relearn trigger tools work with 433 MHz sensors.

You're welcome 😊

If the S500 is powered by the 70mai UP02 hardwire kit and parking mode is turned off (Collision Detection and Time-lapse), the S500 should stop recording and not consume more 3 mA. That amount of power draw should not be a factor in the depletion of your vehicle's battery. If the S500 is powered by the cigarette lighter power adapter (CLA) and the power for the socket that it's plugged into turns off when the vehicle is parked, there should be no drain on the vehicle's battery. If the CLA power socket does not turn off when the vehicle is parked (ignition off), then yes it will continue to record in normal recording mode which would be a problem for your vehicle's battery.

There are two potential solutions. If this condition has been occurring for a long time, it's very likely the rubber window seal on the roof has been tweaked. The rubber piece that should be on the outside of the window glass will often get pushed inward (towards the center of the vehicle). Many SSR owners have been able to retrain the rubber seal over a period of time by rolling the window almost the full way up and gently pulling the outer rubber piece so the window glass fits in where it should go and then fully rolling up the window. You then take some flat plastic shims (something about the size of credit cards or even just a bit thicker) to act as a wedge to force the outer seal even further out. Leave the shims in place for several days or as much as possible and parking the SSR so the window seal will be exposed to sunlight to heat up the rubber a bit may help as well. Over a period of a few weeks, the rubber's "memory" of being in the wrong position should be reduced or eliminated allowing the window to roll up into the correct position. In extreme cases, there may be a need to adjust the window glass "tip in" amount. There are two adjustment points (behind the door panel) that can be used to adjust the placement of the top edge of the window glass. I've not found that adjustment to be necessary or all that helpful, because in most cases the rubber seal is the root cause of the problem (as stated above). A PDF document from Dick Bellville (Dicktator on the ssrfanantic.com website) discusses this adjustment. Here's a link to that PDF file in his Microsoft OneDrive file library. onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21AGf6FcPQkiAbwEk&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5&id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5%214295&parId=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5%21853&o=OneUp

Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it. Been learning a lot watching your videos. Well done.

If you go to the mapnsoft.com/kia website, create an account and login, you have an option to purchase updates for older model year/models. I just checked and the oldest model year listed on their order page is 2009.

Nope, he is right, there is no updates for years 2014 or less. At least not on the USA page. I have a 2013 Optima and I can't find any update for it. No download files nor method to purchase USB drive. I would have gladly bought it if they had it.

The "Navigation Updater" offers free downloads for the Kia Optima back to the 2015 model year. The 2014 Optima has an update becoming available for purchase in September 2024 according to the mapnsoft website. The 2013 Optima update shows as discontinued on mapnsoft website. Availability of an update varies per make/model.

Yes, I still own and drive my 2014 Caprice.

You'll need to purchase an update for your vehicle via the mapnsoft link in the video's description section. The free download / install option is only for most models with model years after 2015.

The amount of data depends on the incidents detected by the dash camera. I have a T-Mobile SIM card in my unit with 2 GB of data included (at full speed data transfers). I drive my car one to two times a week and I don't use more than a few hundred MBs of data per month.

You'd have to view the rear camera on the front camera's screen or connect to the dash camera via WiFi and use the VIOFO app to watch the live feed from the rear camera. It could be done, but it would be extremely inconvenient to use the rear camera as a backup camera.

You should be able to use an unused fuse box fuse socket that is normally rated for 25 amps if the feature is not present in the vehicle. Make sure you only use one fuse in the fuse tap (upper socket). Placing any fuse in the lower fuse socket of the fuse tap, might provide power to something in the vehicle that is not intended to receive power in your vehicle's configuration. It doesn't necessarily cause a problem in most situations, but to be 100 percent sure, only use the one fuse in the upper fuse socket of the fuse tap. I would think a 10 amp fuse would be sufficient for your ham radio, but you need to see if there are any specifications documented on the unit or in its product documentation that states how much power it draws while in use and while powering on.

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks for the quick reply. You're my new hero.

Mr Bellville seems to have changed something regarding his Microsoft OneDrive file repository making my original link invalid. I've created a new shorthand link to his document library. bit.ly/dicktator-ssrhowto-v2 If you look for the glove box handle repair document in his library, you'll find the information you're looking for.

I've made one additional refinement to the relay option since making this video. When the relay control power is turned off, there can be a voltage spike that can occur when the relay's coil de-energizes. There are relays that include a "flyback diode" in the relay assembly which helps prevent the voltage spike from occurring. You can also add a diode to the wiring of relays that don't have an internal flyback diode. A 4-pin relay is the preferred relay type only because a 5-pin relay will have one pin (87a) that never is used. The 87a pin is the output power pin for when the control circuit power is "off". For a dash camera battery pack that requires switched/accessory charging power, you will get that power from relay pin 87 and not the 87a pin. Here's an Amazon affiliate link to a 5-pin relay with a flyback diode already inside of the relay assembly. amzn.to/3SLzNX7 Your connection to the power source (vehicle battery) should have an inline fuse as close as possible to the connection to the battery. I recommend using 12 AWG wire for the dash camera battery pack positive/negative charging cable wires. The inline fuse holder wire (after the fuse) will connect to relay pin 30. Pin 87 will connect to the positive charging cable wire for the dash camera battery pack. Pin 85 of the relay is the ground side of the relay control circuit. Relay pin 86 is connected to a switched/accessory power source (likely using a fuse box fuse tap). If you use a 5-pin relay, pin 87a will remain unused.

@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks. I am upgrading my wife's car to a power cell 8. Currently, I have a 20 fuse tap on the rear cigarette lighter. I know the concern is the power requirement exceeding the tapped fuse, however, in my case would it be ok? Since nothing else is plugged in to that fuse and nothing is plugged into the rear 12v?

As long as nothing is using power on that circuit, it should be okay to use it for the charging power for the PowerCell 8.

Thanks for responding

You can connect the dash camera's battery+ and acc+ wires to the same fuse tap in a fuse socket with switched/accessory power. That will result in the dash camera powering down when the vehicle's ignition is turned off instead of going into parking mode.

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks for the reply.....but in my case it is the battery connection not the dash cam.

Then I do not understand your question. If the battery pack (charging connection) requires a switched/accessory power source, then you must only connect the charging cable wire to a switched/accessory power source and of course the ground to a vehicle ground. If you have a battery pack that has its battery charging cable connected to constant battery power (like the Thinkware iVolt Xtra BAB-95), you must connect the charging cable positive to a constant battery power source and the ignition sense wire to a switched/accessory power source.

@@RetroCarGuy530 My existing battery pack comes with 2 cables only. 1 to ignition on power and the other to gnd. so for Ivolt xtra bab-95, it comes with 3 cables to connect. constant battery power, accessory and gnd. Can i run connect both the constant power and accessory cables to my existing cable which is an ignition on power.?

You might be able to connect it that way, but it definitely is not the recommended way to power that battery pack. The BAB-95 expects to be connected to constant battery power and ground all of the time. When the switched/accessory power is turned on (green "ACC In" wire), it's only a signal to the BAB-95 battery maintenance system to begin charging and to pass along power to the dash camera on the "ACC Out" wire in addition to the constant battery power sent to the dash camera from the battery pack.

VIOFO only started selling the rear camera CPL filter in the past couple of months. The A229 Duo is the oldest model in the A229 series with the A229 Pro and A229 Plus replacing the A229 Duo. I you see a lot of glare/reflections from the rear window glass in the video footage from the rear camera, you may want to try the CPL filter for the rear camera. I have not tried the rear camera CPL filter yet.

BlackVue dash cameras can have parking mode enabled/disabled via their firmware settings. If parking mode is enabled and the dash camera is hardwired, the dash camera will enter parking mode when the vehicle's ignition is turned off (turning off accessory power). It will also go into parking mode if the vehicle remains stationary (motionless) for 5-minutes. There is no option to disable parking mode without going into the settings using the BlackVue app. That's why I add a switch to the power cable for the BlackVue dash camera that allows me to turn off the constant battery power to the dash camera when I arrive at home and park the car in the garage.

@@RetroCarGuy530 yeah it makes sense cut down the power via switch once you park at the garage. Then do we need to turn it back on every time if we are going out? Or the camera get the power through the accessory power even the power cable switched off?

The dash camera is always powered by the constant battery power source. The accessory power wire is only so the dash camera knows when the vehicle is running or not running.

@@RetroCarGuy530 which means we need to turn the switch manually ON, when we are going out? But if we use cigarette lighter adapter, the camera only get power when the car start up, then why can’t we use the same method for the hard wire? I mean what about if we swap the acc and constant power wire? Does it allow us to turn on the parking mode just by the switch..🤔

Yes, you must manually turn on the switch when leaving the garage. You can hardwire the dash camera so that both the camera's constant battery wire and accessory power wire are connected to an accessory/switched power source in the fuse box. That will be equal to what the cigarette lighter adapter does to send power to the dash camera. If the camera's constant battery power wire is only getting power from an accessory/switched power source, the dash camera will never go into parking mode, it will turn off when the ignition switch is turned to the "off" position.

As I mentioned in the video, you can use a multimeter or a 12V test light to test for power that remains on when the ignition switch is turned to the "Off" position. There are some fuses that continue to receive power for up to 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off via a feature called retained accessory power (RAP). RAP will remain only for up to 10 minutes or until the driver's door is opened. Some vehicles will also turn off RAP when the front passenger door is opened. Make sure the ignition switch is in the "Off" position and make sure that RAP has been turned off before testing with a multimeter or test light. You would connect the negative lead on the multimeter or test light to a vehicle ground location or a bolt that is exposed / near the fuse box that has good connectivity with the vehicle body. You would use the positive lead for the multimeter or test light to search for a fuse which has power in those conditions.

Dorman lists this as fitting "Chevrolet SSR 2004-03, Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT 2004-02, GMC Envoy XL 2004-02, GMC Envoy XUV 2004". Those are all the longer frame versions of those makes/models. The Chevy SSR is based on the Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT which is why it works for 2003/2004 Chevy SSR.

The auto dimming mirror power supply will usually be a 12 volt power supply. These dash camera (as do most dash cameras) run on 5V power. It will require a hardwire kit from VIOFO to convert the 12V power to the 5V power the dash camera requires. The mirror power supply will likely not provide constant battery power and switched accessory power to allow the dash camera to fully support parking mode operations.

@RetroCarGuy530 Thank you. But I don't want it on when parked. Just when driving. Viofo does not supply or have this connector. I had this cam in my MACH E , and a co called DONGAR made the connector. But since Volvo doesn't have a big following for these DONGAR does not make them. They are GREAT connectors. Thank you so much for your reply to me. Cheers

It looks like they are 1/4" plastic push in nylon rivet. It looks like there is a Doman products version of the rivets that many auto parts stores may carry. Dorman 45822: Push In Nylon Rivet - .250 In

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks , I appreciate it

The most common reasons for sticking brakes are caliper slide pin(s) that are frozen, caliper piston(s) that are stuck, brake pads that don't slide easily in their mounting bracket.

@@RetroCarGuy530 someone replaced my calipers thinking it was that then they replaced my brake booster then my master but my brakes start braking slowly to the point were if I make a stop I can let go of the brake and the truck won’t move

I watched the raw video file that I uploaded to RUclips and the RUclips transcoded version and I don't see any flickering in any area of the video. The S1 Ultra rear camera does, at times, get a bit aggressive with brightness level adjustments. The S1 Ultra rear camera creates 3840x2160 25 fps H.265 video files.

@@RetroCarGuy530 maybe i was seeing frames drop. it was very minor

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, the rivets come with the strut kit. The rivets have a 1/8" shaft that is inserted into the rivet gun/tool. You should be able to pick up one from Harbor Freight of Amazon.

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks so much brother , I'll let you know how it goes

With the N4 Pro, the cabin/interior camera requires the front camera to be placed on the windshield where the center rearview mirror does not obstruct the line of site for the cabin/interior camera. The VIOFO A229 Pro interior camera is a separate unit which allows for more flexibility in selecting installation locations for the interior camera.

The A229 Pro with its 4K front camera can be beneficial in some situations when you're trying to capture license plates. The A229 Pro does seem to run a bit hotter than the A229 Plus so if you're in a "hot" environment during the summer, the A229 Plus may be a slightly better choice.

@RetroCarGuy530 thank you for your reply I'm in southern California and is currently summer and we are hitting 100f. So, against the wall since I already ordered the a229 pro and really wanted 4k footage. But sounds like the a229 plus might suit me better given where I live. Also 80$ difference

Since this was a test installation for the review, I don't like drilling holes in my vehicle unless there is absolutely no other way to get the product installed. At 5:22 in the video, I showed a 3D printed block I created to allow the adhesive pad on the rear camera to mount to that block. The 3D printed block mounted to the inside of the rear tailgate window glass.

This "fix" was only temporary. The real solution was to have the door latch rebuilt. There are new aftermarket door latches for the Chevy S10 that can be slightly modified to work in the SSR. That's probably the best solution for this issue (long term). You might want to check on the ssrfanatic.com website for this issue and there's a user on that site that sells the S10 door latch that he modifies to work with the SSR.

Hi Damon. BlackVue dash cameras are the closest thing to a consumer product with fleet wide visibility into the driving habits of the driver of a fleet vehicle. IoT solutions will vary depending on the base platform the data is sent to and if any business rules can be applied to the data from the vehicle. I used to work for a company called SeeControl which was acquired by Autodesk in 2015. SeeControl had an IoT offering with data aggregation, reporting and customer specific business rules (if needed). I wrote several device adapters for the SeeControl IoT platform for vehicle (and other) IoT enabled devices. Autodesk shutdown the SeeControl IoT platform in 2019 and thus my job as well. It was a great platform. I've not heard of or dealt with Jimi IoT devices. I did a quick search on their website and it looks like they have several vehicle GPS/tracking devices. Make sure they have the appropriate LTE connectivity options for your location, that SIM cards are available and cost efficient for the type of data use needed for the device in the vehicle. Also make sure the cell carrier has decent coverage in the locations your company's vehicles will be driven.

Glad it helped